Two months ago (May 2013), I went to my local library to return some
books that I had used for a research paper for school. The library has a
museum dedicated to the town's history upstairs, but it's always closed
when I'm there. This time, however, it was open (because of a group of
highschoolers working on the "Canstruction" project, where they stack
donated canned foods into sculptures), so I decided to wander up there. I
could never have anticipated what I saw before me: about 10 antique
dresses, displayed on a large rectangular dais beneath a huge skylight.
Ranging from the 1870s to the 1950s, the dresses were a lush example of
the striking changes in costume through a relatively small, modern
period of time. The collection showed the transition from heavy layers
and structural undergarments, to freer, frivolous leg-flashing fashions.
However, there were some TERRIBLE issues with the display. Most of
the dresses were disappointingly displayed on old, dusty, cracked,
faded, hobbled-over mannequins--not the best approach if your target
audience is children. Some of the dresses had recently (in the past 2 or
3 years) been moved onto newer, modern mannequins, with
disproportionately modern bust and hip measurements, causing great
stress and in many cases structural damage to the already weakened
fibers of the dresses. A
1926 wedding dress,
1920's flapper dress, and
1910's white lawn graduation dress (all of which were on newer
mannequins) were suffering through horrible rips and tears from that
weird too-perky C cup. Two dresses were even displayed on WICKER
DRESS FORMS...the horror!! The display cards on almost all of these
dresses left a lot to be desired, and the styling was woefully off
(apparently it was men who had set up the clothing display several
decades ago).
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Olive green silk bustle dress on a wicker dress form--I can only imagine the havoc this is wreaking on the lining. |
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Perhaps the worst offender--a 1906 wedding gown on a wicker
dress form that was slowly tearing through the thin, fragile silk and
lace on the bodice; THE HORROR!! |
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Yeah...that's not letting anyone sleep peacefully at night...dusty,
doll-like, and a poor emphasis of the wonderfully lacey cotton gown. |
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Cracked, dusty "skin;" and far too many pins holding that skirt up,
probably causing terrible stress on the bodice it's pinned onto. Also, note how the gloves have been sliced open to accommodate the mannequin's hand and then scotch-taped shut. ): |
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1910's Graduation dress experiencing structural damage from trying to
be buttoned closed on a mannequin almost 10 inches too large across the
chest--this just breaks my heart. |
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Beaded dresses shouldn't be displayed on mannequins, as the weight of
the beads and decoration on such thin fabric, plus gravity, leads to a
lot of irreparable damage. |
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The front of the "Flapper" dress experienced a lot of shattering due
to the mannequin's too-large, too-perky boobs. Someone from the museum
had stuffed the tears with large black ostrich feathers, to conceal the
damage (but sadly, increasing the damage to the fragile silk fabric). |
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Evidence of silk shattering on the bodice of a 1926 wedding dress, displayed on a modern C-cup mannequin. You can see how the lace bodice is stretched tightly--too tightly--across the bust. |
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Pretty awkward styling right here, and the mannequin's vacant stare
is doing nothing in making her more personable and realistic to children
or students. |
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1900's hyacinth wool suit paired with a plastic bead necklace. Yup. |
I decided I just had to do something about this. Not that I have
experience with antique textiles, or designing museum displays, but
because I understand the fragility and colossal rarity and importance of
these vestiges of a "bygone time" and wish to represent that as
accurately as possible in an accessible way that doesn't sacrifice the
integrity of the garment.
I set up this project as an Independent Study course through William
Paterson University's Honor's College (since my Honor's track is
Humanities, with a specific focus on history). My goal with this project
is to "makeover" the entire display: new mannequins or dressforms with
appropriate body dimensions to support and display these dresses; new
and more informative descriptive placards offering more of a context and
social importance for these pieces; and a general cleaning up and
restyling the displays to make them a true representation of the moment
in time they are meant to portray and describe. Essentially, I will be
the curator of the costume exhibit in my town's museum, an on-going
position, but the immediate reorganization, preservation, and research
will be for credit towards my minor/ Honor's track.
I will be writing blog posts describing my work with each garment
that I tackle (long, descriptive, picture-heavy posts). The blog posts
will appear on my blog, on the page at the top of my blog that says
"Kearny History Museum," and on the
Kearny History Museum's very own blog
(which I have just created, to make this project accessible to the
town). I hope my fellow sewing/blogging/history-loving community can
support and help me along this project, offering knowledge and tips
where my research fails. I also hope that you can enjoy and appreciate
my journey to save and essentially preserve these fragments of history.
(:
P.S. The photos in this post owe themselves to local North Arlington award-winning filmmaker and photographer Josh Pomponio. You can see his portfolio
here.
This is absolutely fascinating... and sad. And happy that you are able to do something about it.
ReplyDeleteMay I ask what exactly is the problem with wicker manequins? The unevennes of the support layer, or something else?
The wicker mannequins aren't just an uneven support layer (because of all that negative space) but the wicker is also rough and sharp, which, combined with the negative space between the rungs of wicker, has worn through the fragile silk. If this was painted wicker, it wouldn't be so bad; but as it is natural woody wicker, there's tons of little wood splinters EVERYWHERE...so not only is the wicker applying uneven pressure to the gown, it's also gradually slicing through it. ):
DeleteAh, I see! I did not realise about the splinters... Thank you for the explanation!
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